Interesting article in the Wall St. Journal today about how slow the fashion industry has been to offer green apparel:
For an industry that prides itself on being up with trends, Fashion Inc. has been slow to recognize that eco-friendly and luxury are no longer at odds with one another.
It is not an issue of technology or know-how:
You can have your clothes fully organic, recycled or in a variety of other permutations that attempt to minimize harm to the environment, animals or factory workers — variations collectively referred to as “green” or “eco.”
But if you want to buy an ecologically sensitive wardrobe for Earth Day this Sunday, unless you wear nothing but yoga clothes, you’ll need the bloodhounding capabilities of Sherlock Holmes and Watson.
It also isn’t an issue of demand:
But they are clearly missing a rapidly emerging market. In a survey of 67,000 people by NPD Group — tracking consumer interest in ecologically sensitive products from food to cars — interest in buying organic fashion products increased to 18% of consumers in 2006, from 6% in 2004. “That is a huge jump,” says Marshal Cohen, an NPD analyst who has been studying eco business.
Basically it comes down to risk aversion and entrenched business processes:
High-end store buyers are risk-averse when it comes to veering from the tried-and-true luxury pitch that’s espoused by the Guccis and Louis Vuittons.
The big guys are “slow off the mark” to see the opportunities, says David Wolfe, one of the industry’s more frank trend gurus, and creative director at consultants Doneger Group in New York. “They’re not the quickest thinkers on the planet.”
Entrepreneurs in the fashion industry will undoubtedly capitalize on the green movement and at some point in the next decade the big guys will try to catch up (after the market has been established).
Ms. Loudermilk achieved the holy grail of fashion this year — a gown on stage at the Oscars, worn by producer Lesley Chilcott of “An Inconvenient Truth” — and is opening her own store on trendy Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles, near Marc Jacobs. She has also launched a sort of good-housekeeping seal, called the Luxury Eco Stamp of Approval, whereby her staff will also certify a variety of luxury products by other designers. That’s a concept that might help us consumers figure out what’s really green and what just claims to be — but that’s a whole ‘nother story.
From a Marketing for Good perspective, green clothing, luxury or otherwise, only offers competitive advantage if the styling is as good or better than non-green goods. One early entrant from Bono’s wife Ali Hewson failed miserably because the product wasn’t all that stylish. In the luxury market, parity pricing should not be a significant factor but will be in the mass market. To turn green into gold will take innovative minds that can create competitive products regardless of the category.